Bags of character and just a short walk from the city centre. it apparently was built in the 1880's and had been the residence of the archbishop of melbourne for some time in the early 1900's. what added to the appeal were the convent and girls' school next door, neighbouring pub the other side and leafy park across the road now i'm understanding his selection process! ; by the time we pulled up outside, an intermittent problem with the rear lights blowing a fuse had extended to complete loss of indicators, so the local cars soon learnt to keep clear of an enormous truck careering around with two loony brits waving their arms out of the windows in a vague indication of where they were probably intending to go 'right turn, clyde'! ; . we went for a wander around part of the city to re-establish martin's bearings and to see what had changed in the seven years since he was last here, which included a stroll through the crown casino. it was unbelievable to contemplate how much space the building took up, as well as the myriad of ways for them to relieve punters of their money, which made people-watching quite fascinating. we passed rows and rows of 'pokies', fruit machines based on three card poker card games and apparently a national obsession, as well as all the different card, roulette and dice tables more often seen in bond movies. that evening we headed out for a bite to eat i've stayed off the subject of food quite well, i thought ; . fancying something a bit different, and finding that melbourne has simply hundreds of restaurants not to mention thousands of café s ; , we opted to eat at an afghan restaurant to see if it remotely resembled an afghan meal that martin had in pakistan earlier in the travels. we marvelled at the kitsch memorabilia lining the walls we were sat under a picture of an afghan hound, no less ; but thoroughly enjoyed a great meal, even if the curry was a bit hotter than expected! we then went on to find a local hotspot by the name of pugg mahone's obviously most australians don't know the gaelic translation from where this 'corruption' comes ; and washed down the meal with several pints of kilkenny into the small hours, whilst enjoying the local nightlife and resident irish performers who still do all the cheesy classics that all australian people seem to love!? ; saturday didn't start particularly early, but we eventually had breakfast at a local café then headed into the city centre to find out why half of the roads were shut for the day. it turns out that the local large department store was holding a christmas parade before unveiling their christmas window displays, which apparently is a big thing in oz. after battling through the crowds of children and japanese tourists we avoided the fuss and visited the aquarium i think martin was having withdrawal symptoms from lack of diving since he got to oz, so we went to see some fish ; . on the way back we passed the window displays, without the crowds, to find the cheesiest and most amusing displays i have seen in a long time. christmas and hot weather really don't go together in my mind, but i couldn't help humming the carols all the way back through the city! dinner that night was courtesy of the mother and father pitwood so we went to martin's favourite thai restaurant around the corner and had a sumptuous feast until we were so bloated we couldn't even fit in a beer on the way home! sunday started grey and wet so after pancakes and maple syrup for breakfast, we had a quiet morning updating diaries, sorting photos and reading. once it brightened up we headed for st. kilda via albert park, where they hold the formula 1 grand prix each year. the track runs on roads around the park, most of which can be driven on throughout the rest of the year, so i drove a lap in the 3.5 tonne beast that has carried martin all this way - i don't think my time qualified for next year's race but it was great to see the track first hand. we then stopped for a large lunch along the st. kilda café strip, spending the next hour or two drinking beer and people spotting - it seems a lot of people go there to see or be seen, making for some amusing moments. on the way back through the city we stopped off at the melbourne cricket ground, a shrine to international sport as well as a state-of-the-art arena. after watching victoria soundly whooping tasmania for half an hour we felt the rain returning so headed back to the car. as it turned into a wet and stormy evening we abandoned our adventurous eating habits and ordered gourmet pizza delivered to the hostel! the following day we headed out to the west of melbourne to explore the great ocean road, a 200 km stretch of stunning coastline with breath-taking scenery. this included the 12 apostles, giant stacks of limestone standing out in the sea having been detached from the cliffs by wave erosion and gradually and constantly changing. we also stopped in at loch ard gorge to find out more about one of the many shipwrecks along the stretch of coast as well as admiring more of the scenery, made more dramatic by the giant surf and pounding waves due to strong winds coming in off the ocean. on reaching port campbell we found a campsite but expecting a cold and windy night we opted for a cabin for the night. on finding the only and poker websites. 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